![]() ![]() Sound quality is also acceptable, with it possible to have a conversation through the camera and Wyze app. The 15fps frame rate is on the low side, but is still acceptable, especially at this price. It is quick and easy to set up, responds quickly and records good-quality video. There is a tripod mount on the base for fixing the camera to a stand or mounting kit sold by Wyze. Power is sent to the camera via microUSB and there is a regular USB-A port for diagnostics. The camera rotates quickly and accurately when controlled with the smartphone app, and although the motor is fairly loud it works well. It’s a simple and not particularly attractive design, but then a security camera doesn’t need to score too many points in the aesthetics stakes. Size everything so it never dips below 50% or 30% in an extreme lapse of judgement (like a week long bender in Vegas).The Cam Pan is larger than some other indoor cameras, but that’s understandable given the motors inside. Your battery will die a little bit inside each time. Oh, it’s only 10 feet from my panels to my charge controller and I have this 16 AWG wire in my garage from a home improvement project last summer… Not good, that size wire will produce twice the recommended amount of voltage drop.īonus tip… NEVER run your battery down to low voltage disconnect unless it’s a zombie apocalypse. This is probably the biggest mistake I see people make. Place all of your components as close together as possible and use the proper wire size. USE an MPPT charge controller to squeeze out every last drop of energy produced. I put the adjust times in my online calendar as a reminder. The hard part is remembering to change it. It’s pretty easy to make adjustment holes in angle iron mounts (or some other clever contraption). Google solar panel orientation via zip code. Mount your panels so you can tilt them at least three times per year. Go with Mono PV Panels as they are more efficient in low light conditions Of course, if it’s working for you just ignore this Only trying to help… A few things I’d consider which you may be doing but I can’t tell from your details. Once again, if you live where it’s cloudy often, you have to go big I suppose. With a 4- 5 peak solar hours a day, that should be enough to charge that battery at close to the optimal rate. On a decent 120 watt panel you should be pushing an average of 6 Amps to the controller and 5-6 to the battery. I’m not sure where you live, but I think you may be losing some efficiency with your setup. The problem is finding one that will recharge and provide power at the same time most don’t. ![]() There are devices that combine the battery and solar panel into one unit. You can use a calculator such as this:Īlternatively, you could power from a USB power brick recharged by a solar panel. If you are going to run longer than that, be sure that the power wires of the cable are of sufficient gauge. These cables from Monoprice are inexpensive and of sufficient gauge for an up to 15’ run: The reason is, if you run a very long USB cable with thin gauge wire, you could end up with a large voltage drop which could damage the camera’s electronics. If running power to the camera, it is better to run 120VAC closer to the camera and then a shorter USB cable from there, relatively speaking. Security cannot really be improved because one could always just unplug the cable at the camera (or just rip the camera off it’s mount and take it). If you already have a WyzeCam, then you know they are powered by 5VDC provided through a micro-USB cable. ![]()
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